I guess it was fitting that I had just read the chapter in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire where Cedrick Diggory died when a few hours later, I was convinced I was also going to die in Edinburgh, Scotland. Even more ironic that the only reason I was in Edinburgh, was to see some sights that were related to the Harry Potter books and movies.

 I remember being shocked at the death of such a prominent character in the book. I needed a moment to process this stunning development and I decided this was a good time to exit my cozy and warm Airbnb and have one last cigarette before calling it a night. I had a 7am wakeup call the next morning to catch a train back to London. I had decided to make an impromptu visit to Edinburgh by train 2 days earlier so I could see Victoria Street (which many people say inspired Diagon Alley). I wanted to eat at the Elephant House restaurant, the same restaurant JK Rowling would eat at while she was writing her first Harry Potter Novel. I also wanted to visit Edinburgh Castle as I am a huge history buff.

I marked off my Edinburgh bucket list activities one by one. Earlier that evening I had taken a walking ghost tour that took us to the famous Greyfriars Kirk cemetery. My guide, William, was a delight as he told tales of Scots who murdered, died and haunted the city. He was especially enthusiastic despite the fact that there were only 2 other people on this tour and it was a very cold and windy December evening. If I had to guess, the temperature was in the mid-30’s but the wind made it feel like I was in Siberia. While I enjoyed the tour, my body was ready to warm back up at my Airbnb. 

Upon arriving back to my gray stone brick building, just off the Royal Mile, I opened the door and entered a little foyer that held mailboxes on the left-hand side and a stone staircase on the right that led up the different apartments. I entered my lodging, stripped my clothes and took a long hot bath. I was so thankful I had access to a bathtub here. While soaking in the hot water, I read 3-4 chapters in my book. After that bath, I put on a pair of Pajama bottoms, a pair of socks and a very thin sweater. That is what I was wearing when I ventured outside of my Airbnb for that cigarette I mentioned earlier.

As soon as I heard the door shut, I knew I was screwed. I had forgotten to grab the keys to the apartment as I headed out and this was a door that locked upon closing. Thankfully, I had a fully charged cell phone that still held the Wi-Fi connection from inside the apartment, my cigarettes and a lighter.

I looked at my phone and saw it was 10:30pm. The hallway that this apartment in was freezing cold. My feet were already absorbing the coldness from the stone floor beneath me. I knew I had no other choice but to pull up my Airbnb app and call the host.

I called and there was no answer. I left a voicemail describing that I was locked out. After about 10 minutes of no return call. I called again. And again. And again. And again. No answer. No return call. Crap!

I was already beginning to shiver. Did I mention it was freezing? My light pants and sweater were no match for the bitter cold that permeated this building. I couldn’t quite figure out why it was so cold. Then I thought, “Oh yeah, Scotland in December in a 150-year-old building.” I descended the stairs to the bottom floor and saw it was now pouring down rain. “What should I do? “ I thought.

My initial thought was to brave the rain and walk barefoot to a nearby hotel and just get a room. I then realized I did not have my wallet on me. I thought about trying to find a police station and walking in the rain to it just so I had a place I could warm up. However, I realized I may do more damage being lost in the streets in the freezing rain with no shoes and barely enough fabric on my body to keep any semblance of warmth. I decided to walk back upstairs and wait for a callback from my host.

I pulled up Netflix on my phone and began to watch some TV to pass the time. I grew colder and colder by the minute. Every few minutes I would activate my cigarette lighter to warm up my hands. I contemplated knocking on a random stranger’s door, but my paranoid introverted self couldn’t muster up the courage to do that. I wondered what reaction I would have if a random stranger knocked on my door in the middle of the night asking to come in and warm up. I wouldn’t answer the door.

The hours crept by. I was sitting on a doormat in front of the apartment door so my butt wouldn’t be on the cold stone. I tried sleeping but I was shivering so hard I was shaking and my teeth were chattering. My fingers became so cold, that I couldn’t even flick my lighter back on. I was convinced the cold was going to kill me. Death by hypothermia. Death by being a dumbass.

As I write this now, I wonder why I didn’t just call Scotland’s version of 911. I just realized that could have been an option to get to warmer accommodations for the night. Oh well.

Somehow, I did end up nodding off. I was awoken by a man exiting his apartment down the hall and he was taking his dog out for a walk. I looked at my phone and it was 5:45am. He walked towards me and said, “Do you live around here?” I told him my story and he wished me the best of luck and left. About 20 minutes later he returned from walking his dog and invited me inside his flat which I eagerly accepted.

He made me a pot of hot tea. That combination of hot tea and his apartment heater was the most invigorating feeling I have ever experienced. It was like thawing out from spending time in a freezer. The man mentioned he was getting ready for work and I could stay in his kitchen until he had to leave. While the man was showering, I noticed he had mail on the kitchen table. I took a picture of his name and address. I wanted to make sure I properly thanked him for his kindness, and I sent him 100 pounds via mail with a nice Thank You note the next week.

Shortly after finishing my cup of tea, my phone rang. It was the Airbnb Host. She said she had already gone to sleep for the night and was just now receiving my message. She rushed over and got to the apartment right when the man was needing me to leave his apartment. Once I was let back in, my host made me a quick breakfast while I took a hot shower and then packed up my belongings. I trudged the short distance to the train station, boarded my train and proceeded to sleep the entire 4-hour train journey back to London.

Unlike Cedrick Diggory, I was able to live and tell this story. I laugh about it now, but in real time, I was terrified I was going to freeze to death.

Because I am a glutton for punishment, I am visiting Edinburgh again in 2024. Once again in December when it’s ass cold and windy. This time it’s to attend a wedding. I also no longer smoke. I think this future trip will be a chance to right the wrongs and put together a few more bucket list items to see.

I still think of the kindness of the man who took mercy on me that morning. When I mailed him the Thank You note, I purposely left it unaddressed from the sender. The note would let him know who it was from. I wonder if he tells the story to his mates beginning with “So I found this homeless looking American Idiot in the hallway…”

I can only hope he laughs about it now as I do.